Historical Culinary Inconveniences Yield Classic Recipes

The Battle of Marengo,Italy, was fought in 1800, while it brought to a close the last of the French Revolutionary Wars; it also produced a classic French dish. Today we see Marengo recipes on the menues of bistros all over France. While, we do relish this simple uncomplicated French comfort food dish; we do not often reflect on its origin.

Napoleon wanted a nice luncheon to celebrate his victory at the battle of Marengo. Bonaparte's Chef, Dunand, had little to use for a luncheon dish, so he sent a few scullions out to forage for ingredients. Their search turned up few ingredients: an old chicken caught in someone's yard, flour, butter, garlic, dry white wine, chopped tomatoes, some crayfish from a pond, parsley and basil from someone's herb garden, nutmeg, white wild mushrooms, small fresh onions, and fresh eggs. Chef Dunand with a bit of drama, he surrounded the dish with soldiers biscuits en cockade (it was thought to honor the campaign but is was really of necessity). Napoleon was so pleased with the dish that he named it after the battle and insisited he be served the savory Chicken Marengo dish after ever battle.

Today we make still make a Marengo with chicken, veal, or rabbit, but long ago, we replaced the hardtack with toast.